Loire Valley Castles, Part One: Villandry

Chateau Villandry was completed in 1536, the last of the Loire Valley Castles built in the Renaissance. It changed hands in 1754 and became the property of a Marquis from Provence. This castle is most well known for its gardens.

The main building

A bazillion fish in the moat, begging for food

All our boys, checking out the fish

Red cabbage in the vegetable garden

The railing on this bridge alternates with the four suits in a deck of cards. In this picture you can see clubs and spades.

Each garden has a name and a theme. I don't know what this one is called. (But Bernard bought me a book...I should look it up.)

Looking over the gardens.

This is the love garden. Romantic, right?

Swans swimming in the pond in the upper level. There were two swans and one duck. The duck was just sitting by the side of the pond by himself. Nicco was upset at the swans for leaving him all alone.

The pond and upper level gardens

This was called the Sun Garden.

In every corner of the vegetable garden there were these little covered benches and fountains. So pretty and tranquil. I wouldn't mind being a Marquess, gathering veggies and fruits and picnicking in my garden. Then again I have it pretty good, without all the social and political obligations and threats a marquess would have had. I think I'll remain content with my little life.

Chez Papi Bernard

On Tuesday morning, we packed up and headed for Chinon, where Patrice's Uncle Bernard lives. Bernard was a gracious host and guide to us while we were there. It was a great opportunity for a small family gathering, too. Patrice's cousins Patrick and Christine and their families came over one evening for dinner. It was the first time they were all together in many years.

These pictures are out of order, but again, I don't have the patience to rearrange them.

Patrick, Pascale, and Christine. Patrick is a cop. He had quite some stories to tell. Pascale was very kind to me. While everyone was chatting and visiting and catching up, she sat down beside me and asked about me and my visit. Christine is bonne-vivante, full of life. She has a very generous laugh and smile.

Mamie, Bernard, and Papi.

Nicco and Christine's kids, his French cousins. At first they were all very timid, but after a few minutes, I don't think they knew they didn't speak the same language. Nicco said that Camille knew some English. I guess they were counting together. Pierre said that Nicco knew some French, but it was hard to understand. I guess his American accent is pretty heavy.

Cuties. Very sweet, all three.

Me and Christine, visiting the best we could. I feel like I understand a lot more than I have before but it is still hard to come up with words myself. She is showing me a picture of the cousins when Patrice was 7 years old or so.

Bernard, Papi, Michel, and Patrice. Michel is Christine's husband...he's from the Basque country. I had a hard time with his accent, but I got a good impression of his personality. He and Christine make a good pair, both very gregarious and friendly.

This was taken earlier in the day at Bernard's cave. It is an actual cave, and he did all the wood, tile, iron, and stone work himself.

Inside the cave. It is like a second home!

Patrice behind the bar.

On a small piece of land above the cave. Bernard is thinking of selling this little property. It is getting harder for him to maintain. I asked how he came about it in the first place and I was told it is "la mode" to have a cave. Everyone in that area has one.

Nicco and his cousins, gathering (and counting) nuts and shells.

This was the morning we left. We could not have ordered better weather until that day. The temperature was not much different from back home for the first week and a half of our trip. I was afraid I would be freezing the whole time, but we've been blessed with something of an Indian summer. It was a surprise and something of a disappointment to see the fog. Nervy of the weather to resemble fall in October, I tell you.

This is Bernard's house. Lovely.

Nicco loved the swing out front.

And the attic bedrooms. He was curious about being so close to the roof.

And he was delighted that our room had three beds...one for each of us!

And, this is the cave next to Bernard's...it is unfinished, unlike his.

Saturday Market in St. Foy la Grande

Every Saturday there is an open market in St. Foy. Papi said it is the biggest market in the southwest. I love farmers' markets, but the French open air markets are something else altogether.

The flag outside of some government building in town. R F stands for Republique Francaise, in case you didn't know.

Stained glass windows on the church.

An old building. I can't help myself...I really like all the old buildings.

Ham, sausage, pate. The market smells are hard to describe. Very pungent.

Live animals; rabbits, ducks, chickens, and geese.

This vendor was checking the gender of this rabbit. Nicco was intrigued.

A fruit and veggie stand on a pretty street corner.

Mmmm...bread. We have bread every day. Even when everyone wes exhausted from a day of driving and sightseeing, it was imperative that we stop at the store for bread on the way home because there was only a demi-baguette left. Patrice and I went to the boulanger this afternoon. Patrice was debating between buying 2 or 3 baguettes and settled on 2 until he found out they were just fresh from the oven. I ate the end off one before we got home. Couldn't help myself.

Cheese. Cheese comes after the aperitif, after the main course, and after the salad. I am almost always too stuffed to eat cheese and bread at the end of my meals here. There is a saying in France that a meal without cheese is like a woman without lipstick. Well, I don't wear lipstick either.

Everywhere I've been in France the people have tablecloths made from a variation of the fabric in this photo. Always yellow, always floral. Very French.

Nicco and Mamie buying mussles for moules-frites for dinner.

And, we ran into everyone I know in this town at the market.

Patrice's Birthday

Patrice celebrated the 12th anniversary of his 29th birthday in France for the first time in roughly 20 years. I think his mommy was happy to have him home for the occasion again, finally. My pictures are a little out of order but I do not have the patience to fix them. We had dinner at Severine's house on his actual birthday, then the following Sunday everyone came to my in-laws' house for a special birthday feast.

Nicco and Mamie presented Patrice with his birthday cake.

Pretty, and delicious.

Nicco had been running around the yard playing tag and kicking a soccer ball before dinner. He got a sweaty head and fuzzy hair.

Severine and Sonia bought fireworks instead of candles. Hee hee.

Birthday treats...yummy.

Nicco was happy to get an extra wii day this month, but he became a little frustrated as the hour approached 10:00. I can't dal with him when he is frustrated at games AND exhausted.

Nicco helped his Papa open presents.

A bottle of wine from Patrice's birth year. How about that.

Good times.

Checking In

We have had some adventures since my last post and I have roughly 7,000 pictures to sort through.

Patrice contacted an old friend from his days in Philadelphia who, it turns out, lives not too far from his uncle near the Loire Valley.

We spent 3 days as guests of Ton Ton Bernard (or Papi Bernard, depending on the particular point of view) touring the valley.

We also spent a half day and a night as guests of the Vitré family in their charming home, a remodeled 12th century (I think...) stable. Amazing.

Pictures to come.